Rethinking Winter Greens

Alexandra Guarnaschelli

This time of year, the local green vegetables get pretty scant at the market. I find myself searching for new things to do with the spinach that survives the frost or the radicchio or frisee still hanging in there. Here are some tips for pairing greens with other good flavors for your table:

-Frisee, the curly, floppy-looking yellow and green head, and dandelion, a long green with spiky leaves, are both delicious when grilled quickly or roasted. I always used to braise them for a long time until they were tender (AKA overcooked). I think our natural inclination with greens like these that tend to be bitter-tasting is to cook the bitterness out. Now I actually find cutting the root end off, washing them thoroughly, and dropping them on the grill for a few minutes is the best way to enjoy their flavor and nice texture. A sprinkle of salt, pepper, and your preferred vinegar (mine is Sherry) or fresh lemon juice can be the start of a great warm salad with goat cheese or a delicious companion to a piece of roasted fish or meat.

-Some winter "greens" aren't green! Radicchio with its red, bulbous head and endive with its pale yellow and white leaves are both delicious raw in a salad mix. I find them more interesting, however, when sautéed simply with a touch of oil, sea salt, and pepper. I love combining endive with a couple of whole juniper berries or a splash of gin as they cook. After only a couple of minutes, the endive leaves should be tender and perfect for eating. Radicchio has a tougher texture. Separate the leaves from the head and, if they are large, cut them in half or thirds. Drop them into a little oil with sea salt and pepper. Add a splash of Balsamic vinegar or fresh orange juice to add a little acidity and sweetness. After a few minutes, remove from the pan and serve immediately.

-Escarole is a winter green my father used to serve raw in a salad. I always struggled with the underlying toughness of the leaves. I would smile and gulp down a lot of water while eating them! My favorite treatment for them now is to drop them in a hot pan with a splash of olive oil, a few sliced tomatoes, and a touch of chili flakes. They will lose a lot of volume, so don't be afraid to overload the pan and watch it wilt. Cook for only a few minutes and serve immediately.

Source: Yahoo Canada - Lifestyle

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